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"THE ONLY THING THAT IS OBSCENE IS CENSORSHIP." (Craig Bruce) Introducing: "Censored Dresses" by David Siepert
David Siepert is a German artist living in Switzerland, whose works deal with human behavior within environments marked by processes of change and tension. The concept for his latest work originates from the artist’s time spent in the Middle East, performing research in places such as Lebanon, Egypt, Bahrain, and Dubai. It was here that he first encountered the censorship of advertisements in women’s fashion magazines. These are not cases of straightforward censorship, where the magazines themselves are prevented from being published because of their content. The magazines appear for public purchase via translational processes between cultural conventions of dress — painstakingly applied to individual images. With magazines that are produced in these Middle Eastern countries, or specifically for them, these adjustments are created pre-press. However, in the case of imported Western magazines, which are available uncensored, it is usually the shop owner who takes responsibility for the images. Often whole pages will be removed from magazines, because too much of woman’s skin is shown. But some shopkeepers take it upon themselves to cover these exposed areas by hand, using felt-tip pens or markers. These cases of self-censorship, as the images themselves are not prohibited, can be seen as acts of translating cultural conventions. By covering areas that are shown unclothed, fashion is adjusted and transformed into the image of something that does not exist in reality. Chosen from a collection put together over several years, several of these aesthetically and culturally sensitive alterations formed the starting point for the ‟Censored Dresses” project. Working with the concept of fashion producing fashion, Siepert took the hand-censored fashion advertisements to professional dressmakers in Cairo’s Islamic quarter and asked them to recreate the clothing as depicted. Adding another dimension to the translational process, these instructions left the practical parameters of the design open to the women’s interpretation. The finished dresses are a product of a complex relationship between different cultural conventions, which are simultaneously mediated through individual interpretations. The final phase of the project consisted of a performance in the form of a fashion show with the dresses at Zurich’s historic Cabaret Voltaire in May of 2012, followed by exhibitions both in Zurich and Beirut. Photographs of models wearing the dresses, referencing the conventions of fashion photography, were part of the exhibits. Translating the work back into the arena of publishing, an editorial fashion shoot with the dresses was done, thus treading on the mixed territory between fashion, advertising, copyrights, and art.
Tell us about the concept behind your project “Censored Dresses”. Where did the idea come from?
In some Middle Eastern countries imported western magazines go through a process of censorship. A couple of years ago I was working on a project in Dubai when I stumbled across some censored magazines. First I thought about doing a project using censored material. Over the course of three years I collected these altered magazines, refining my huge collection to a few especially interesting advertisements that now form the basis of my project “Censored Dresses.” The one thing the adverts I selected have in common is that they were all censored by hand with felt-tip markers. Covering areas that are shown unclothed, fashion is transformed into the image of something that does not exist in reality but now exists within specific cultural conventions. Working with the concept of fashion producing fashion, I took the hand-censored advertisements to professional dressmakers in Cairo’s Islamic quarter and asked them to recreate the clothing as depicted. As not all parts of the dresses are visible in the adverts I left the practical parameters of the design open to the women’s interpretation. The outcome of this is the materialization of a reality that exists only in the translation between public and private, between East and West. The result of the fashion shoot by I Love You is an interpretation within the process of the piece and adds another vital layer to the artwork.
In which countries does this censorship appear?
How do you feel about the censorship?
In what aspect are you most interested as an artist?
Can you tell us more about dress regulations?
Dress regulations vary in the Middle East and often are applied differently to locals, foreigners, and tourists. Something that might be acceptable for a tourist to wear could be socially unacceptable for a local. In some of the stricter Islamic countries, like Iran, it is compulsory for women to wear a headscarf and to cover their bodies; likewise, arms should not be bare. There is a whole fashion industry developing because of these dress regulations. There are lots of women designing their own contemporary fashion within the respective restrictions of dress codes. Besides that, it is important to be aware that just because somebody is wearing an abaya (black cloak) does not mean that the woman is not wearing high fashion underneath.
Can you tell us a particular story of your experiences?
When I was showing the hand-censored advertisement to one of the dressmakers in Cairo and explaining what I wanted her to do, she just smiled and took out her mobile phone. She had taken pictures of billboards around the city advertising a new TV series. The billboards were showing the very same picture, but it was photoshopped differently for each neighborhood. In the expat area the lady in the poster was wearing a strapless dress, in the next neighborhood the lady was wearing a spaghetti strap dress, and in the most conservative part of Cairo the dress had supplementary sleeves. In my eyes this shows
that censorship is also about respect for the beliefs of others. All the dresses were tailored in the Islamic part of Cairo but the reactions of the dressmakers were very diverse. Some found the project very interesting, others were indifferent, and some found it
a bit offensive.
Did you achieve your goals within this project?
Sometimes projects develop a life of their own. I see “Censored Dresses” as an ongoing process, and I am sure that some layers of translation will be added in the near future. A special quality of the project might be that it enables a discussion without necessarily having to talk about politics and religion. I feel privileged that besides showcasing
the piece in Zurich, I also have the opportunity to show the dresses in the Middle East. The project is building a bridge between East and West and will hopefully trigger many more interesting conversations and discussions.
Can you tell us something about your upcoming projects?
Well, first of all there will be some more events related to “Censored Dresses,” such as a fashion show at Cabaret Voltaire in Zurich, and then, just to give you a hint, I will be smoking like a German, hanging out in a bathtub made of Swiss Ricola cough drops, and making people bump into each other while the sound of contemporary art is playing in
the background.
Find out more about David Siepert on his website and our interpretation trough a photo series in THE EGO ISSUE, available online and in selected stores worldwide.
Autumn Flutterbye
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PLUS ART
PLUS ART PROJECTS AT THE MAYOR’S PARLOUR
Wednesday 10 October - Saturday 10 November 2012
FRIEZE WEEK PARTY FRIDAY 12 OCTOBER, 8PM UNTIL LATE
The fifth annual Frieze Week exhibition from Plus Art Projects, and the inaugural exhibition at the Mayor's Parlour showcases bold and unconventional works by 67 artists, straight from the artists’ studios. The Mayor’s Parlour is a new arts club situated in the 1930s old Bow Town Hall in East London. Established and converted to a high modern spec while reflecting the original interior of the Town Hall by the art fabricator Kerry Ryan. This elegant new curated exhibition venue opens with an immense and diverse exhibition curated by the renowned London based Plus Art Projects.
The exhibition includes a souvenir from the Chapman Brothers’ controversial Hell sculpture, neon artworks by Tracey Emin, Gavin Turk and David Batchelor, taxidermy sculpture by Polly Morgan, a myriad of paintings which range in subject and scale, amongst many other works. Art works are numbered, not conventionally listed; the viewer encounters ambitious, enticing and occasionally challenging artworks, directly, without influence of authorship. The wide range of content and making gives this exhibition a pinhole view of some of the most exciting and challenging contemporary art in London now.
Sue Arrowsmith, Peter Ashton Jones, Annie Attridge, Franko B, David Batchelor, Katrina Blannin, Sarah Blood, Sean Branagan, Tamsin Casswell, Jake and Dinos Chapman, Katy Cole, Mat Collishaw, Dan Coombs, Mark Croxford, Jason Davidge, Adam Dix, The DnA Factory, Dominic from Luton, Howard Dyke, Rosie Edwards, Tracey Emin, Damien Good, Nitin Goyal, Ken Graham, Laura Graham,Tim Holmes, Mustafa Hulusi, Nick Jeffrey, Ben Kustow, Peter Lamb, David Leeson, Sarah Lucas, Dingbot Mclatchley, Declan McMullan, Harry Meadley, Tanya Millar, Simon Mitchell, Luke Morgan, Polly Morgan, Darren Murray, Morag Myerscough, Lyle Perkin, Benedict Radcliffe, Tabita Rezaire, Kerry Ryan, Yana Ryan, Giorgio Sadotti, Peter Saville, Mark Siebert, Michael Stubbs, Jessica Temple, Sarah Tulloch, Gavin Turk, Covadonga Valdes, Harry Weller, Gillian Westgate, Alison Willoughby, Phill Wilson Perkin, David Wood, Elizabeth Wright.
Curated and produced by neonist Kerry Ryan, artist Declan McMullan and Jessica Temple
Post-private view acts for the legendary Plus Art Frieze Week party include Julie and the Fabulous Lounge Swingers, Felt Tip, The Highliners, The Meat and Onions Gang, The Unkindness of Ravens, as well as Gavin Turk, Franko B and Dave Collishaw DJing.
Opening times: 9 - 9 daily 10 – 6 Saturdays 10 – 4 Sundays
info@plusartprojects.com www.plusartprojects.com
New Year Status Messages
Whether u Stay Far or Near,
Whether u Ignore or Care,
U'll Alwayz be luvble & Dear,
I'm Here Missing & So Wishing U,
A Very Happy New Year in Advance...
_________
Cheerz 2 a new year and another chance 4 us 2 get it right.....
_________
"Happy New Year",
I know itz 2 Early,
but I’ve 100z of,
Handsome GUYz and,
GIRLS 2 Wish, so,
I decided 2 finish off,
Unclez and Auntiez First..
_________
Wishing u a new year rich wid the blessingz of luv, joy, warmth, and laughter....
_________
Another fresh new year iz here ,,,Another year 2 live, 2 banish wory, doubt, and fear, 2 luv and laugh n give...
_________
force the previous year intoO the
quiet midpoint of the the past
Let it go, 4 it waZ flawed,
and show gratitude God Dat it can go
_________
Let the firecracker start, permit toast the New Year..
_________
My new year resolution
I wouldn't upset about responsibility things
true system or the incorrect way.
This year,
I am gonna do things my way.
Dear My Daughter...
Dear my daughter,
I know you are only 5 months fetus now, but I believe you’ll be the sunlight of my life,
You’ll be my beautiful rainbow after the rain and the dark cloud,
You’ll be the blossom flower after summer,
and everyone fond of to pick you up, but I won’t let them!
I can hear you inside…
I promise won’t let you alone
I promise to always by your side, through the morning and night,
You’ll be my cute healthy baby,
I’ll spend my 24 hours quality time only for you, make sure you get more than enough,
You‘ll be my enchanted princess of my life,
Everyone want to have you, but I won’t let them…
I will let you grow…
I’m behind you when you need help and friend to talk to,
I’m more than a mother, I’ll be your best friend,
I’m more than your mother, I’ll be your eyes in this dark world,
I will let you dream, think, choose and fight for your desire, but here I’m watching for you.
I will guide you and show you the right road,
You’ll be my array and I will let you fly by giving you a half of my wings.
I’m more than mother, I’ll be your everything.
but you have to remember, I love you more than you do.
Dear my daughter..
I can’t wait the moment I hold you and see your beautiful smile..
I hope 3 months ain’t gonna be a long time…
I’ll be your mother, just can’t wait… to see you soon.
*Princess Kaurvaki, June 15th 2012
Dedicated for my fifth month pregnancy & my daughter, Redva Previta Kaurvaki
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